The material we use for most of our projects is Delrin (polyoxymethylene). This plastic has a high stiffness and low friction, and glue doesn't hold it together. So during class on Tuesday, we learned different ways of fastening and attaching two pieces of Delrin together.
Types of Fastenings and Attachments
Heat Staking
Heat staking uses a hole in one piece and a notch in the other, so that when the notch is melted down and then cooled off using air, it forms a small bump that is attached to the other piece. The benefits of heat staking are that the two pieces are permanently fastened together and they will not slip or move. This permanence can also be a drawback though because the pieces cannot be disassembled. Also, if the heat staking is done incorrectly, the piece will be ruined and not be reusable. For example, if we wanted heat stake an axle and wheel together, we couldn't separate them afterward if we needed to fix something or redesign a part. However, if the car were definitely going to stay permanent, heat staking would ensure the wheel was firmly attached to the axle.
Piano Wire
Using piano wire involves the drill press, drilling a hole through your pieces, and threading the piano wire though both. We learned how to put in the drill bits, align our pieces, and carefully drill a hole through where we want the piano wire. The benefits of piano wire can be if you want a hinge in your structure or want to connect pieces in a line using the wire. With the two different widths of wire, we can make tight fits so the pieces don't move and loose fits so the pieces make a hinge. Drawbacks of using piano wire are that it takes practice to drill accurate holes. During class, most of us weren't able to get it perfect. If you wanted to make a hinge, piano wire would be perfect, but if you need the pieces to permanently stay together, heat staking might be a better choice.
Notches/Pegs
Notches and pegs have the advantage of dis-assembly, so nothing in your structure is permanent. This way of attachment can be a tight fit loose fit depending on your measurements in SolidWorks. However, a disadvantage is that it's hard to get your measurements perfect, especially since the laser cutter often won't cut the exact dimensions you specified. For example, on our next project (constructing a mini well windlass), we are deciding to use notches more instead of heat staking because we want to be able to disassemble the parts, but we have to cut small test pieces to check measurements before we cut our final large pieces.
Bushing Tolerances
Bushings are small circles or rectangles that attach around another small piece. They can be tight if you do not want another piece beside it to fall off or they can be loose if you want something to spin or slide. A tight bushing would have a similar purpose of heat staking, except that it wouldn't be completely permanent. A drawback of bushings is that you must get the measurements exactly right, and so many test pieces have to be made. Let's go back to the wheel and axle example. If we wanted to attach the wheel to the axle without it sliding off, we could use two very tight bushings on either side. This way we could take it apart if we need to (unlike heat staking). An example of using a loose bushing would be if you wanted to stabilize a part, but wanted it to spin.
In class, we measured the inside diameter of three different bushings and compared those with the diameter of a Delrin rod. We measured each one three times.
Rod: 0.2500, 0.2495, 0.2500 (mm)
Bushings:
Loose: 0.2620, 0.2600, 0.2620 (mm). [About a .01 mm bigger than rod]
Tight: 0.2510, 0.2515, 0.2500 (mm). [Right around diameter of rod]
Very Tight: 0.2495, 0.2520, 0.2465 (mm). [On average, slightly smaller than the rod]
Notches/Pegs Tolerances
We also used a sheet of different notches to see the differences between loose fits and tight fits. We found a notch that was tight with our peg and one that was loose with our peg, then measured them three times each.
Peg thickness: 3.25, 3.20, 3.21 mm
Tight Slot:
Width: 12.63, 12.71, 12.64 mm
Height: 3.15, 3.10, 3.11 mm
Loose Slot:
Width: 13.43, 13.61, 13.57 mm
Height: 4.11, 4.29, 4.20 mm
We saw that the height of the tight slot was smaller than the width of the peg and the height of the loose fit was larger than the thickness of the peg. We didn't measure the width of the peg, but it's clear that the width of the tight slot is about 1 mm smaller than the loose slot.
Discrepancies between SolidWorks and Actual Measurements
Another measurement we wanted to test was whether or not the laser cutter cut the exact dimensions specified in SolidWorks. We had a small sheet with three different widths of slots: 0.135, 0.125, and 0.115 inches. When we measured them we found some discrepancies between what they actually measured and what they were supposed to be.
SolidWorks: Actual measurements
0.135 in: 0.1435, 0.1425, 0.1425 in
0.125 in: 0.1365, 0.1350, 0.1375 in
0.115 in: 0.1235, 0.1150, 0.1190 in
As you can see, all of the slots turned out to be a little more than 1/100 mm larger than the specified dimension in SolidWorks. This is a result of the laser because even though we set the laser to "hairline width" it still affects the measurements.
We will be applying some of these techniques to our well windlass project. One thing we need to keep in mind are that SolidWorks measurements aren't always exact when printed out, so we need to print some test pieces to check the right dimensions. We also need to think about how tight or loose of a fit we want for our notches and/or bushings, and use the examples we did in class to guide our thinking for those measurements.
My partner, Maggie, and I have been working hard on our windlass over the long (and snowy) weekend and can't wait to share our design!